Saluting Tradition: The Pelagos FXD - TUDOR's Modern Milsub Legacy

SALUTING TRADITION

THE PELAGOS FXD - TUDOR'S MODERN MILSUB LEGACY

The new Pelagos FXD pays homage to the rich history of TUDOR timepieces worn by US Navy divers over the decades. Featuring fixed strap bars, a titanium case, a high-performance Manufacture Calibre, and a unidirectional elapsed-time rotating bezel, it represents the ultimate modern interpretation of the classic "Milsub."

Starting as early as the mid-1950s, TUDOR diving watches underwent rigorous testing and evaluation by various units within the US Navy. By 1958, they were officially adopted and acquired for distribution to divers in different naval divisions. The Pelagos FXD model serves as a spiritual successor to those iconic watches. Its name, FXD, reflects the sturdy fixed strap bars on the case, drawing a direct connection to its military roots.

This model embodies a contemporary, high-performance, and rugged rendition of the renowned "Milsub," a term coined from "Military Submariner" of the past. Its design aesthetics closely resemble the late 1960s-era TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7016, incorporating features specified by the US military for diving watches, such as the fixed spring bars. Additionally, it incorporates design elements inspired by earlier issued TUDOR watches, like the pointed crown-guards reminiscent of early TUDOR Submariners.

TUDOR AND THE US NAVY

TUDOR diving watches were supplied to the US Navy for many years, starting in the late 1950s. These watches gained significant recognition for their use by SEAL teams, who adopted them in 1962 and continued to rely on them until the late 1980s. These durable timepieces also served various underwater roles within the Navy, including with UDTs, Seabees, and Navy dive school instructors. TUDOR Submariners issued to personnel played roles ranging from instructing scuba diving fundamentals at the Underwater Swimmers School to assisting in underwater submarine maintenance at US and international submarine bases. Additionally, these issued TUDOR watches contributed to pioneering innovative underwater technologies worldwide.

Over the years, TUDOR consistently supported the US Navy as a watch supplier. In the 1965 "First Edition" of the Underwater Demolition Team Handbook, a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7928 was featured alongside the "Diving Watch" section, serving as essential literature for new operators studying UDT operational procedures. In 1973, the US Navy Diving manual listed the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner references 7016 and 7021 as "Navy-approved" diving watches. Starting in 1974, with the introduction of the National Stock Number system to track the US Department of Defense's supply system, under code 6645-01-068-1088, supply officers could acquire and issue TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 9411, later 76100, to qualified sailors or operators in need of a dependable Navy-approved dive watch. This specific supply catalog entry remained active until 2004.

Typically, watches issued to military personnel are engraved with specific inventory codes, but the US Navy-issued TUDOR watches did not adhere to a standardized marking system across the entire force. Instead, these watches were either left unmarked or had unit-level markings using various coding systems, primarily for inventory tracking purposes. Since many of these US Navy-issued TUDOR watches lack distinctive markings, it poses a challenge for contemporary watch scholars to ascertain their military origin, despite official records indicating substantial deliveries of various TUDOR references over several decades.

A UNIQUE SET OF SPECIFICATIONS

Originally conceived in collaboration with active-duty combat swimmers, the Pelagos FXD case adheres to a meticulously precise and rigorous set of specifications. Consequently, it incorporates certain distinctive functional elements that set it apart within the TUDOR collection. Notably, it features fixed strap bars seamlessly machined into the primary body of the 42mm titanium case, enhancing durability and dependability. These bars, designed as extensions of the lugs, play a pivotal role in defining the model's characteristic profile. Another remarkable aspect of this model is its ergonomically designed 60-notch rotating bezel, unidirectional in nature and equipped with a luminescent material-filled 60-minute-graduated ceramic insert, fully compliant with the ISO standard 6425:2018 for diver's watches.

From an aesthetic perspective, the Pelagos FXD model draws inspiration from TUDOR's historic divers' watches that found favor among US Navy personnel during the late '60s through the early '80s. It boasts a sleek black hue, square hour markers, and angular hands, known as "Snowflake," introduced by the brand in 1969 to enhance watch luminescence in low-light conditions. The watch also features a unidirectional rotating bezel with a sand-blasted ceramic insert adorned with luminescent material. Its 42mm titanium case is waterproof up to 200 meters and boasts a satin-brushed finish to minimize reflections.

A FABRIC STRAP IN PURE NAVY STYLE

Historically, the US Navy frequently outfitted their divers with TUDOR watches sporting fabric straps, often one-piece varieties in black or green crafted from nylon. The two straps offered with the Pelagos FXD pay homage to this military tradition of wristwatches on straps rather than bracelets, albeit with a twist. The flagship configuration includes a one-piece green fabric strap with a distinctive red central thread and a self-gripping fastening system, while an additional black embossed fabric-patterned one-piece rubber strap provides a subtle contemporary twist to a classic appearance.

The one-piece fabric strap stands as one of TUDOR's signature elements, with the brand being among the pioneering watchmakers to introduce it with its timepieces in 2010. Crafted in France on 19th-century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, the strap excels in manufacturing quality, sturdiness, and wrist comfort. For the Pelagos FXD model, TUDOR collaborated with Julien Faure to develop a highly technical strap composed of a 22mm forest green nylon woven ribbon with a prominent red central thread, a titanium "D" buckle, and a self-gripping fastening system. This strap adapts seamlessly to various wrist sizes and ensures exceptional wear comfort.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5602

The Pelagos FXD model is powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5602, responsible for displaying hours, minutes, and seconds. It exhibits the characteristic finish found in TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: the rotor is constructed from tungsten monobloc, featuring an openwork design and satin-brushed texture with sand-blasted accents. The bridges and mainplate showcase alternating sand-blasted and polished surfaces, adorned with laser decorations.

Its construction prioritizes durability, longevity, reliability, and precision. This is exemplified by its variable inertia balance, supported by a robust traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Additionally, the inclusion of a non-magnetic silicon hairspring contributes to the watch's chronometer certification by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The performance of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602 surpasses the standards established by this independent institution. While COSC allows for an average daily variation in a watch's timekeeping between -4 and +6 seconds compared to absolute time within a single movement, TUDOR insists on a narrower range of -2 to +4 seconds' variation when the watch is fully assembled.

Furthermore, the Manufacture Calibre MT5602 boasts an impressive power reserve that can be described as "weekend-proof," lasting approximately 70 hours. This means that the wearer can take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without the need to wind it.

DISCOVER THE POWER OF TUDOR
 

In conclusion, the Pelagos FXD by Tudor is a remarkable timepiece that pays a heartfelt tribute to the enduring legacy of Tudor watches worn by US Navy divers for decades. With its fixed strap bars, titanium case, high-performance Manufacture Calibre, and precision-engineered features like the unidirectional rotating bezel, it stands as the modern embodiment of the classic "Milsub."

The history of Tudor's partnership with the US Navy is steeped in tradition, with these timepieces serving various vital roles, from SEAL teams to dive school instructors. Despite the lack of standardized markings, their presence and significance within the Navy's operations were undeniable.

Register your interest in thIS incredible new addition to the TUDOR Pelagos Collection today by calling us on 01234 630821 to book your appointment with one of our TUDOR Specialists.