Taking Flight - TUDOR Pelagos FXD GMT "Zulu Time"

TAKING FLIGHT 

TUDOR PELAGOS FXD GMT "ZULU TIME"

The Pelagos FXD platform, originally created in collaboration with a specialist unit of the French Navy, has been adapted to meet the requirements of the French Naval Aviation. This updated version includes a feature enabling aviators and support crews to monitor "Zulu time" alongside local time and an additional time zone. The new Pelagos FXD GMT is METAS-certified as a Master Chronometer, guaranteeing the highest level of accuracy and dependability under the challenging conditions faced by Aéronautique Navale personnel.

Since the 1950s, TUDOR has been an official supplier of durable diving watches to the Marine Nationale (French Navy), supporting the challenging missions of naval troops over the decades. The first Pelagos FXD model, where “FXD” stands for the watch’s robust FiXeD strap bars, was launched in 2021, continuing TUDOR’s longstanding association with the French Navy. Following years of field use, the Pelagos FXD has proven its reliability. In 2024, the FXD range has been extended to cater to the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation), responsible for naval aviation missions. The Pelagos FXD GMT is designed to track three time zones simultaneously, including “Zulu time”—the military designation for Universal Time Coordinated (UTC), the reference standard for aviators on essential missions. Zulu time aligns with zero-meridian time or Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), its universal use in aviation helping to avoid misunderstandings across different nations and time zones. In aviation phonetic code, “Zulu” stands for “Z,” representing zero-meridian.

The watch’s highly visible bright orange hand, which circles the dial every 24 hours, provides quick reference to Zulu time, typically set once and left unchanged for a constant reference. The local time is displayed via the angular “Snowflake” hour hand, which can be adjusted in hourly increments using the winding crown—a feature useful for changing time zones. The date adjusts as the hour hand passes midnight, whether moving forward or backward. A third time zone is accessible via the 24-hour luminous bi-directional bezel in combination with the orange Zulu time hand.

TUDOR AND THE FRENCH NAVY

In 2021, TUDOR publicly formalised its partnership with the French Navy, continuing a relationship that began in 1956. At that time, the Groupe d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (G.E.R.S.), a scientific unit linked to the French Navy in Toulon, received some Oyster Prince Submariner watches—references 7922 and 7923, which were waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft) and equipped with self-winding and manual movements, respectively. The commanding officer at G.E.R.S. deemed their waterproofing “perfect” and performance “entirely correct,” which led to further orders and TUDOR’s recognition as an “official supplier to the French Navy” in 1961.

Over the following decades, the French Navy used a range of TUDOR diver’s watches. Among them, the reference 9401, with its distinctive blue dial and bezel, became iconic. Its case back featured “M.N.” and the year of issue, and it was produced in two styles: initially with “Snowflake” hands and markers, and later with triangular hour markers. Launched in the mid-1970s, this model was supplied until the 1980s and remained in use into the 21st century, particularly at the French Navy’s diving school and by combat swimmers.

Reviving this legacy, TUDOR introduced a new technical watch in 2021 for underwater navigation, developed with the French Navy’s combat swimmers. This Pelagos FXD model included several innovative features for TUDOR, such as fixed strap bars integrated into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for added durability and reliability. These bars, extending as an integral part of the lugs, contribute to the model’s unique profile. Now, with the Pelagos FXD GMT, TUDOR and the French Navy mark a new chapter in their shared history, utilising the FXD platform to meet the precise time-tracking demands of naval aviation.

FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION

The cockpit of a Rafale Marine jet, the cabin of an Atlantique 2 long-range patrol aircraft, and the air-traffic control tower on a helicopter carrier all share a common trait beyond their role within the French Naval Aviation—they all operate on Zulu time. To facilitate Zulu time tracking, TUDOR has crafted the Pelagos FXD GMT. Built on its reliable FXD platform, this watch prioritises practicality, featuring a robust yet lightweight grade 2 titanium case with fixed strap bars, waterproof up to 200m, and entirely brushed for a matte finish. The 42mm case houses a high-performance mechanical movement, a high-contrast dial, and colour-coded hands, including a 24-hour arrow-head Zulu time hand, distinct with its bright orange lacquer for clear visibility.

These elements ensure excellent legibility in low-light conditions, with powerful luminous materials on the hands, hour markers, and bezel for quick time reading even in darkness. The blue luminescence of the hour, minute, and seconds hands, along with the hour markers, contrasts with the green glow of the 24-hour hand and 24-hour bezel, allowing for intuitive Zulu time reading. Complementing these features is the MT5652-U Manufacture Calibre, which enables precise time and date setting with a jumping-hour function controlled by the winding crown—an ideal tool for aerial missions.

To emphasise its official commission with the French Navy’s aviation branch, the Pelagos FXD GMT’s grade 5 titanium case back is engraved with the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation) logo—a winged anchor topped with a star—and the historically-inspired “M.N.24” marking, which stands for “Marine Nationale 2024,” indicating the production year of each watch batch.

A BRACELET WOVEN IN THE FRENCH NAVY’S HERITAGE

The French Navy traditionally received TUDOR watches without bracelets, fitting them with handmade straps instead. Common choices included black braided nylon straps and, less often, parachute elastic straps in green with a yellow or red central stripe. The Pelagos FXD GMT’s fabric strap honours these practical designs, matching the aviators’ flight suit colours.

TUDOR’s signature fabric strap, launched in 2010, is made by Julien Faure in France on 19th-century Jacquard looms, known for its durability and comfort. For the Pelagos FXD, TUDOR and Julien Faure developed a technical 22mm green polyester strap with a grade 2 titanium buckle, plus a keeper featuring the French Naval Aviation roundel in French flag colours, edged in gold with a black anchor.

Julien Faure, established in 1864, also creates ribbons bearing French Navy ship names, featured in the bachi, the red pompom hat worn by French sailors, adding a heritage link.

COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS

The Pelagos FXD GMT is Master Chronometer-certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), meeting the most rigorous standard in the mechanical watch industry. This certification covers critical aspects such as precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness, and power reserve. The precision requirements are especially stringent: the watch must maintain accuracy within a 5-second daily variation (0/+5), which is tighter than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) standard of -4/+6, which applies only to uncased movements, and one second narrower than TUDOR’s internal standard of -2/+4 for models with Manufacture Calibres.

The certification also ensures the watch’s accuracy under magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, along with its stated waterproof capabilities and power reserve. Additionally, two conditions must be met for certification: Swiss manufacturing must adhere to the Swiss Made criteria, and the movement must first be certified by COSC.

CRITERIA AND TESTS FOR MASTER CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION

All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Pelagos FXD GMT has achieved, are summarised below:

• Swiss Made
• Certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
• Precision at two temperatures, in six positions and at two levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
• Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
• Guaranteed waterproof to 200m (660 ft) by METAS
• Guaranteed 65-hour power reserve by METAS

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5652-U

The Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U powering the Pelagos FXD GMT exemplifies TUDOR's approach to technical innovation, featuring an adaptable movement design that integrates a GMT function directly, rather than through additional modules—a preference valued by watchmaking enthusiasts.

This movement reflects the signature design of TUDOR’s Manufacture Calibres, showcasing a unique sun laser pattern and the “Master Chronometer” designation on its bridges to underscore its high performance. Its monobloc rotor, crafted from tungsten, is openworked and decorated with laser radial grooves and sandblasted details typical of TUDOR Master Chronometer calibres. Various finishes are also applied to the bridges, adding to its aesthetic and technical appeal.

Built for durability and accuracy, the MT5652-U features a variable inertia balance wheel held by a robust traversing bridge anchored at two points. It holds a COSC chronometer certification, exceeding the standards of this independent institute. COSC allows an average daily variation of -4 to +6 seconds for an uncased movement, while TUDOR applies a stricter standard of -2/+4 seconds for fully assembled watches. The METAS Master Chronometer certification further tightens this to 0/+5 seconds for fully assembled watches, making the MT5652-U both exceptionally accurate and anti-magnetic, resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss.

The MT5652-U also has a practical “weekend-proof” power reserve of approximately 65 hours, allowing the wearer to set the watch aside on Friday evening and pick it up on Monday morning without needing to wind or reset it.

DISCOVER THE POWER OF TUDOR

The TUDOR Pelagos FXD GMT "Zulu Time" is an exciting new release that brings together functionality and a rich legacy with the French Naval Aviation. With features like Zulu time tracking and a bright orange hand for easy reference, this watch is designed to meet the needs of aviators in the field.

The Master Chronometer certification from METAS ensures that it excels in accuracy, resistance to magnetic fields, and waterproof capabilities, making it an impressive addition to any collection. The Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U at its core showcases TUDOR's commitment to excellence, ensuring reliability for any adventure.

The Pelagos FXD GMT "Zulu Time" is a remarkable timepiece that will surely capture the attention of watch enthusiasts. If you're eager to find out more about this fantastic release, call us on 01234 352343 to speak with one of our TUDOR specialists.

REFERENCE 2542G247NU

CASE

Grade 2 titanium case, 42 mm in diameter, 12.7 mm thick, 52 mm from lug to lug, satin-brushed finish

Fixed strap bars

Grade 5 titanium case back

BEZEL

24-hour bidirectional rotatable bezel in grade 2 titanium with black ceramic insert

WINDING CROWN

Grade 2 titanium crown, adorned with the TUDOR shield in relief

DIAL

Black

CRYSTAL

Sapphire crystal

WATERPROOFNESS

Certified waterproof to 200m (660 ft) by METAS

STRAP

Fabric strap with grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper, green

Removable fabric keeper

MOVEMENT

Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U (COSC and METAS certified)

Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system

Integrated GMT function

POWER RESERVE

Certified 65 hours by METAS

PRECISION

Swiss Chronometer officially certified by COSC

(Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute)

Master Chronometer Certification from METAS

FUNCTIONS

Centre jumping hour, 24-hour, minute and seconds hands

Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range, synchronised on the jumping hour hand

Stop-seconds for precise time setting

OSCILLATOR

Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment screw

Non-magnetic silicon balance spring

Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)

TOTAL DIAMETER

31.8mm

THICKNESS

7.5mm

JEWELS

28 jewels